Can anyone please help with morph I.D on this little one that hatched overnight.
Both parents were purchased as Tangerine bell albino white and yellow het eclipse
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Can you please take photos of the parents? Did you say both parents you purchased as Bell albinos? If that’s the case one of them is not albino, as this baby isn’t albino. I also don’t see eclipse or white-and-yellow here either. It looks like a relatively normal baby.
If you can post a photograph of the baby’s eyes that will also aid with ID.
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And as said,
If you can post up images of parents that may help somone identify the morph for you.
Since you may of been sold them as the wrong morphs.
In addition to what was said above pictures of the parents would help. Are there any other babies from this pairing? If so, pictures would help.
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These are the parents. They had been paired up together when I got them. This is the first baby to hatch. The next egg she laid in her water bowl, the 2 after that in her lay box so should be OK, the last 2 laid were again in her water bowl
I know the male is very underweight, he has been to the vets and am awaiting fecal testing, although testing a month ago showing no crypto or parasites. All my leos are housed separately.
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That’s why I was a bit confused as when I put the pairing into the calculator, none of the outcomes were matching this hatchling
Unsure on morphs myself. I’m a Crestie person.
But Both are very underweight though. Just more so the Male. Shouldn’t be breeding them at all.
You said they’d be paired up before so I’m assuming you haven’t paired them again?
What are they eating?
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I separated them as soon as I got them and they have stayed separate. The female has laid 6 eggs in total and feeds on mealworms mainly and dubia roach, with 3 wax worms once a month as a treat. The male has stopped eating and won’t take anything offered. Since I’ve had him his faeces has never been solid so I knew something was wrong. I got them as a trio, and the other female is worse than the male.
These are the best pics of the baby eyes I can get. She won’t stay still long enough lol
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Both parents are very underweight. How many mealworms and dubias do they typically eat and how often are they eating? It seems the baby is not albino which means they are different strains of albino which means the baby should not be sold to breed. It should be kept or sold to a pet-only family. If you don’t have the means to take care of the other babies I would suggest not hatching them. It’s an unpopular opinion but if you don’t want to care for all of the babies for their whole life and never breed them (which if you do go for it) you could feed the eggs to a large lizard if someone you know has one. Since the parents strains are unknown they shouldn’t be bred either.
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The mealworms get left in a bowl in with them continuously. They get offered 6 dubias every 2-3 days. I also leave a small bowl of calci worms in with them too.
I already have a home set up for this baby, a friend is wanting her for her partner, so I know it will be kept as a pet only. As for the other babies, I will be making it very clear they will be homed as pet only.
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That’s good. They should be gaining weight. How long have you had the adults for? As long as you can ensure the babies are pet-only that’s good. Unfortunately a lot of people will sell mixed strain offspring to breeders just to make money from them rather than doing the responsible thing and selling them to pet-owners.
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I’ve had the adults since mid April. I really don’t know why they aren’t doing well. Warm end temps are normally between 28-30°c, last fecal test showed no parasites or crypto, the female laying eggs is the only one out of the 3 that’s eating. My other leos are all OK so I know it can’t be the set up (they’re housed in racks)
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The temperature is a bit low so it could be that they aren’t digesting right, could you get the hotspot to 32*? The vet doesn’t have any other ideas on what to try? I would quarantine them away from your other geckos just in case it’s a disease that could be transferred to them. Do you have a picture of the enclosure of the 3 and one of your other geckos setup (if it’s different). I’ll tag @mblaney in case she has any idea what the problem is. I would recommend getting them retested in case of a false negative but other than husbandry (which likely isn’t a problem if the other leos are fine) I’m not sure what the problem is.
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All rubs are set up identical. I’ll increase the temps. Vet wanted to retest feaces again, but as they aren’t eating and pooping I’m unable to get a sample
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Personally I’d give them actual substrate in their.
Then again all our reptiles are bio as hate the thought of them not having it
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I’ve found paper towels work well for leos. I use bio for cresties but leos do fine on paper towels. It can sometimes cause a bigger hassle, especially if feeding bslf (calci worms) and mealworms.
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Oh really?
I have fat tails, Bio also. So would assume would be best also as when we had Leo’s they were bio too?
It depends on the scenario. If there’s a very small chance that a feeder could escape (food motivated geckos) then it would be fine. It also isn’t very practical for a rack system since the heat wouldn’t come through the substrate as well and it would be harder to deep clean (if it would even be necessary). I haven’t tried substrate for leos yet. Some day when I have the time and funds I might build a rack with bioactive tanks and see what happens.
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My cresties, barking, cave and pictus are all on substrate suitable to them, but my leos are all on paper towel.
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