No, they should shed in one whole piece. That is stuck shed from what I see. Mist him and his enclosure to help him with it. Make sure you clean yourself and everything that comes into contact with him and never handle your other animals after him. Keep him in a separate room to be safe as well.
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Perfect!! Ill do that, thank you so much
New here my self but if it helps. I took in a 7ft boa with a RI. Cost just over 200 for exam/culture test and broad spectrum antibiotics.
I took my bp to the vet the next day and the vet said to just give her time. But wow 200$ for just the exam? I only paid 50$
No 200 for a culture test. Exam. And some starter antibiotics. How is your snake ?
Oh i guess i dont know what that is then, its doing well i held it yesterday for a bit and i didnt see any signs of fluids in its face. Ive offered it 2 meals since i got it and its refused both. So im not sure if thats due to it being used to having live ones.
A good snake vet would have tested the snake for an RI right away. The longer you wait the worse an RI gets. It has to be an endotracheal wash and culture to be 100% accurate as well. Don’t hold your snake until you get it feeding as well. They have to set in for at least 2 weeks without being messed with.
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If an RI has progressed to the point where drool will spill out, then I would temper your expectations. Even if you get a culture and a targeted antibiotic it may be too far gone, though it’s still worth it to try and save the animal. There’s not much more you can do besides keeping him clean, comfortable, and warm. A vet will (or should) be able to tell you if it is a bacterial infection, viral infection, or both. The most important thing I could recommend is to sterilize everything, and I mean everything, that comes into contact with the sick snake to prevent contamination, and if possible keep it in a different room.
This is unfortunately why one shouldn’t purchase reptiles from craigslist. Sounds to me like someone unloaded their problem onto you. Don’t feel discouraged, though, it happened to me for my first animal as well.
I personally would make sure the entire enclosure and all items inside are cleaned well. I would also bump the overall ambient temps up until you know for sure one way or the other if it is an RI issue or not. Seen someone mention stuck shed and misting the cage. That is your last concern right now is stuck shed. Make sure your humidity does not get to high while you are waiting to see if it an RI or not. High humidity with an RI could make it worse from what I have been told. I would aim for about 84 degrees at the coolest in the enclosure with your normal hot spot. Humidity on the lower end (55 percent) until you know for sure if it am RI or not. If no RI bring your temps and humidity back to your desired levels. I only have a few years experience but this was recommended to a friend from a vet whose BP had an RI. From what I have seen this would be my first steps besides a vet visit (clean enclosure, bump temps up and watch humidity levels)
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I actually know someone who lost their boa to a respiratory infection that went unnoticed
Too low of humidity for too long can also cause and make an RI worse. If it is so low that the BP can’t even shed properly, then it is too low. 60% is the lowest I would recommend for humidity for them.
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Yes I agree but I would not mist. I would cover enclsoure or holes in tubs to raise humidity vs misting with possible RI issue to keep substrate and enclosure dry but proper humidity. I would not disagree with you at 60. I usually keep mine at 60-70. I was just giving information I received second hand from a reptile vet. I have seen various opinions on BP humidity but would not disagree with 60 being a decent setting.
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When are you noticing this spillage of water/drool? When you’re handling it? If a snake regurges water when handled, you might just be stressing it after a long drink. Stuck shed helps confirm this snake may have simply been thirsty. You may as well pick up a snake that just finished downing a meal, you’ll get a regurge.
If it’s straight liquid, let your animal relax and replenish fluids for a few days without handling. Regurgitation is a flight tactic that occurs easily with poorly timed handling.
A thicker, more viscous discharge is more reason for concern, especially if bit isn’t clear. Again, if you’re handling it and noticing it, it may still be a regurge out of stress/flight syndrome.
Stress works wonders on snakes, ball pythons are no exception. A new arrival should be given time to acclimate. Constant handling will extend the acclimation period long enough for other health issues to develop.
Constant regurgitation, be it water or food, will irritate the snake’s throat/digestive tract as much as a person suffering chronic heartburn. You can wind up with an animal incapable of ingesting anything, which will undoubtedly lead to even more severe issues.
I understand that some snakes acclimate easily with frequent handling. We are not all Dr. Doolittle when it comes to acclimating a new pet snake. Allow a few days at minimum in an adequate enclosure to adjust, without handling. A week is more ideal. A successful feeding is good indication that a new addition is relaxing in it’s new environment.
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You need to take it to a vet ASAP it most likely has and ri you might be able to look on your local herp society website