Ventilation question (gargoyle enclosure 18x18x24)

I’m working on an enclosure for a future gargoyle gecko.

The enclosure is 18x18x24 with no current ventilation except the top screen. I ordered a handful of 3” circular vents and I was planning on putting a couple on bottom and then the top screen to vent out. But most of the top screen will be covered except the light location and a small opening to vent air out. I expect the heat from the light will help pull air in from the bottom as it exits the top. Also I plan on using a fogger as well as water misting system on a timer.

So the question for people with experience with controlling humidity, what do you think of this plan? How often should I mist with water and how often should I use the fogger? I’ll be making sure to get it right before I put anything in the enclosure but looking for a good starting spot. I want to avoid mold as much as I can.

Also I saw some people using pc fans pulling air in from top but that seems like the wrong way to go. Seems like it would be better to have a pc fan at the bottom pulling air in?

Thoughts?

1 Like

Is the enclosure front opened?

1 Like

Could you post a picture?

1 Like

I have chameleon geckos in this one but this is the same type of setup that my gargoyle was in. I have a small heat mat on the top next to the UVB light. Plenty of air still.

It’s a front opening enclosure so I spritz at the top and both sides as well as a bit on the terrarium moss to keep it damp am and pm. No fogger or automatic mister needed. Just a spray bottle. The will be plenty of air to go around. Don’t over think this.

1 Like

Yeah it opens from the front. It’s a dubia enclosure.

1 Like

My main concern is mold and it killing a $300+ gecko.

2 Likes

Yes I totally understand. However the heat and the UVB will keep the substrate from molding. It will dry it out. That’s why you should spritz, not soak, daily. I have terrarium moss in the bottom of mine that I replace every couple of months. Mine is not bio or anything like that.

I’m just telling you what has worked for me for at least a couple of years. But I go for simplistic ease of maintaining. The tank in the picture is what I am currently using to breed my Chameleon geckos in. Maybe someone else who keeps gargs will pop in here. This is the way I kept mine. I would tag someone but I can’t think of anyone at the moment. I’m sorry I couldn’t help you.

2 Likes

No, I appreciate the feedback. I’m just trying to figure it all out.

I’ve had a ton of leopard geckos but never one that requires a substantial amount of humidity so it’s new to me.

2 Likes

Speaking of bioactive, I’m trying to decide if I want to go that route. How do you keep it clean?

2 Likes

I understand your concern totally! Leopards are very different than gargs. But trust me my way worked for me. It looks like your tank is very similar to mine btw. The humidity should be around 80 to 100 percent after misting but the tank should be allowed to dry out between the mistings. You will be able to control it with a spray bottle. Morning and evening. In the meantime it should be fine with 50 to 60 percent after. I think you might be making this harder than need be.

1 Like

I am not a fan of bio. I did go that route a couple of times but for me it was too complicated and expensive so I gave up. I could not keep the colonies of ISOs reproducing but I think they kept getting eaten! :blush: I apologize that I cannot give you solid advice on that topic. Some people swear by bio but I’m not one of them. I just change out the terrarium moss.

1 Like

Pic of one of the proud parents (Chameleon Gecko) eating this am

3 Likes