I would keep it up with 5-7 days in between feeding attempts. I would definitely try the paper bag method but I would first just get a whole bunch of fake plants and throw them in the enclosure as he may feel exposed
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They can eat a larger meal than you’d think, you may try upsizing the pinky.
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You could try braining a f/t pinky. You can use a pin to poke a couple holes in the skull of the pinky, or use a sharp blade to slice open the front of the skull. Sometimes exposing the smell of delicious brain matter is irresistible to some snakes. 
I know it’s a little gruesome, but sometimes it helps. I don’t have any hoggies, but braining is how I got my sand boa to start accepting f/t after she’d been fed live for 10 years by her previous owner.
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I will definitely be trying this as well. Thanks for that tip!
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Will definitely be adding more clutter, thank you!
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Whatever next adjustment you decide to do I would stick to it. Be consistent. To make too many adjustments all at once will just add stress to an already stressed hoggie. And yes as @ballornothing Don says, baby hoggies can eat bigger sizes of prey than you think! 
Don’t worry! He will eat when he is ready and not stressed! 
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And @logar I suggested feeding at an interval of every 7 days minimum because he quit eating at every 5 days. Snakes know when they have had enough. I don’t think we give them enough credit for that. 
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You have to do this more than one time. If he doesn’t eat in 7 days then wait another 7. If not successful then one more 7. Then if he doesn’t eat try something different. But DO NOT handle at all until he is eating consistently.
I would wait on the tub and the paper bag (tried the paper bag and it didn’t work btw) and leave him in his original enclosure where he was already eating the unscented pinks. But the extra “stuff” tossed in is a good idea.
Just give it 3 weeks. 2 out of my 4 hogs put me through this so I know what you are going through!! 
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@amacioce Here is Martini, I got him in August of this year. He went directly into a 6 qt sterilite tub with several inches of aspen (I know paper towels are the best for quarantine), cork bark and lots of fake foliage. He would only eat in this little sandwich container placed inside his little tub. Of course I had to remove some of the “stuff” to put it his tub! 
I got him this August.
I just moved him into a bit larger tub last week. He still wants to eat inside his little sandwich container inside his tub. But I am sure he will grow out of it. When I first got him I left him alone except to feed him, spot clean and clean the water bowl, even though he was eating consistently. I didn’t want to rock the boat. I still don’t get him out to “play” with him yet.
Here is his new digs. He stays buried except for this picture. This past feeding he ate 2 ft fuzzies. I feed him every 7 to 10 days now. Especially since he’s eating more……
And of course he will grow into a larger enclosure eventually until he is in a permanent one!
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The pics are super helpful!
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Do you know anyone who keeps toads or frogs? Maybe frog or toad scenting might be helpful too.
Of course my friends’ hoggie just… refuses to eat most of the winter. They offer on a schedule but he tends to turn things down most of the winter. It’s like he’s trying to semi-brumate himself in spite of them not cooling him for it. He doesn’t lose too much weight doing this and stays hydrated so… shrug. He seems to resume appetite come early Spring. We’re not sure if this is common or not.
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Unfortunately I don’t have any frog access.
I had heard that the lowered eating activity in the winter doesn’t normally apply to babies but maybe I am mistaken. That would explain the behavior a bit tho! Especially because he otherwise seems happy and not stressed.
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I’m not telling you not to try it but the place I got it from the frog juice was quite expensive and it didn’t work.
I just have the feeling that if your little noodle was eating unscented before, he will accept it again eventually. I know it’s frustrating and scary but you just have to have patience and out wait him.
He may very well be trying to brumate himself but unless you let him his try will be futile. Also his hot side surface/surface temp should be 88 to 90 degrees. Anything over 90 is too hot imo.
My first 3 hogs gave me fits. I was prepared by the time I got Martini!
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From what I know that is correct, though they would in the wild so it makes sense he might try. I wonder if a short soft brumation could work, if you moved him to a tub in a cupboard and kept him around 62-65f for a month or so. It might be enough to convince him winter is over without the risk of properly brumating a baby. I would want someone with more experience to give their opinion on that first though.
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Does your town or nearby city have any Asian food markets? Those and some other places sell frog’s legs as frozen meat. Thaw a chunk and use it to scent your food offering. If he seems intrigued but that doesn’t quite work you might feed him a piece of it. (You could always fry up the rest of the meat yourself and see what it’s like. I’m told it’s quite good!)
Another scenting or food offering I’ve heard works for hognoses is chicken hearts, also available at the same markets. You can scent with them or offer a pinkie sized well thawed piece.
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