So unfortunately I have snake mites, and have for a couple months now. I’ve been soaking my infested snakes 1-2x a week in a tub with water and dawn dish soap and disinfecting their enclosures with F10 vet disinfectant (wet for at least 10 min). However now I noticed another of my snakes has mites and she’s in a 4x2x2 and I reeeeeally don’t want to have to disinfect that huge thing repeatedly. It’s also on a shelf so it’s a bit awkward to clean.
Thus, I’ve been looking into chemical treatments. I don’t want to use Prevent-A-Mite because I’ve seen things about it killing snakes even when used according to the directions and I don’t want to take ANY chances. Same with the Natural Chemistry Reptile Spray. I haven’t heard anything negative about Lugarti’s Natural Reptile Mite Spray, but I haven’t really heard anything about it in general which to me makes it seem like it might not be effective. The best thing I’ve seen talked about is Frontline Spray, however the spray has been discontinued because of PFAS contamination or something, and using the drop stuff for cats and dogs isn’t recommended because it’s too concentrated. I also don’t want to use ivermectin because of possible adverse effects.
So, my questions are:
Does anyone have experience with Lugarti’s spray? Does it work? Is it safe for snakes?
Is it possible to dilute the Frontline drops and use them on snakes? Has anyone done this?
What about predatory mites? I’ve seen good things about Taurrus mites but they aren’t available in the US. NaturesGoodGuys on Amazon has a predatory mite blend, however - has anyone had success with that?
So I’ve never had issues with snake mites. I’d usually say that the dawn dish soap method is best used for new snakes with mild infections.
This sounds like a pretty serious infection.
You are aware that snake mites can live outside of their enclosures right? They can live in anything with crevices, pourous surfaces, cloth, rugs, carpets… you name it. You need to do a thorough cleaning of anything that comes into contact with your reptiles or you after touching your snakes. Bleach mop hard surface floors, bleach laundry loads and wash with cold water that includes rugs. Wipe down counter tops, shelves, racks. Soak enclosure decor in diluted cold bleach water for a minimum of 30 mins and do daily cleaning of enclosures.
The mites will not go away until everything is deep cleaned. That is probably why you are having such a big issue, you will need to get a vet appointment to see about mite prevention for your snakes while you begin deep cleaning.
Keep enclosures as minimal as possible. Plastic hides, water dishes, paper towel bedding and clean them daily.
Its a big hassle but its what happens when snake mites are introduced and spread to a level thats hard to manage.
This is why it is so important to quarantine any new arrivals that enter your home. Snake mites are only spread through other contaminated snakes and any contaminated surface they come in contact with.
Yup, snake mites are like fleas, because once they colonize your house it’s really hard to get rid of them!
I had a problem with snake mites one time so I bought Provent a mite. Before I used it though, I called the number on the can and I talked to a gentleman who gave me specific directions as to how to use it and the mites were gone in a few days. I didn’t even have to wash any carpet etc because he said to just spray some on a cloth and wipe all around the openings of my enclosures after I had taken care of the insides of them. I didn’t even have to wash my snakes with dawn!
Thanks for your response. It’s actually not a very bad infection on each individual snake that has them, only a handful of mites that I’ve noticed, I’m just tired of dealing with disinfecting stuff all the time and was looking for a better way to control them. Back in January I first noticed mites on the only ball python that I feed live, and I hadn’t put anything new into her tank at all in months and months, so I concluded that a mite must’ve hitchhiked on her prey and that’s how she got them.
After that I thoroughly inspected all of my snakes and found only two others that had mites, and I immediately quarantined all three in smaller enclosures with paper towel substrates, plastic hides, and a water bowl that were all easily cleanable. Admittedly I did not know just how far mites can travel, I assumed that they had to stay on the snake to feed, and since my living space is relatively small I couldn’t totally isolate the infected snakes and I thought just across the room would be okay. Evidently not, as I just found one other snake with them right as I was in the process of cleaning out her enclosure to replace the substrate, and only discovered the mites after I put the new bedding in, so I guess I get to throw that out now…
The newly infected snake is in a 4x2x2 and I don’t want to go through the weekly hassle of cleaning it out and disinfecting it so I was wondering if there was an easier way to deal with mites than soaking/cleaning each week.
This may seem like a silly question…
Are you sure they’re snake mites? The look almost like tiny black spiders.
Rodent lice or mites and snake mites are different so it would be odd for them to have hitchhiked in. The more likely culprit would be a piece of decor or bedding you may have from a shop that had a mite infestation.
100% sure they’re snake mites. I looked up pictures extensively when I first discovered them. Small black dots, almost like spiders. I also found them beneath my snakes’ scales and (gently) squeezed a few out.
I hadn’t added anything new to the original snake’s enclosure in months and months - only her live prey. I get my live feeders from a couple local reptile shops in the area who both do their own breeding, so it’s not unfathomable for a mite to have hitchhiked from one of them. It’s the only source I can think of, however of course I can’t be 100% sure it was from one of them. And I use cocoblocks bedding so it’s very unlikely to have ridden in on that.
Are any of your snakes sitting in their water bowls? I just don’t see how you could have gotten this infestation with the way you have described your situation
The first one did, which is how I got tipped off in the first place. Now I noticed the fourth one soaking and confirmed that she has mites as well. I caught #2 and 3 early so their infestations didn’t get to that point before I started treatment.
Regardless, how I got them is irrelevant at this point. I’m asking about solutions and people’s personal experiences with the methods I inquired about.
The problem is if you’re not keeping an eye out for how you got them it’s just going to continue. I’d just go scorched earth and throw away any possible contaminated bedding or baking your cocoblocks because that can still potentially carry mites. And start using something like Rid’s Home Lice bedbug and mite spray around the areas you keep snakes in
Lugarti’s is just a few different oils and not an insecticide so I honestly don’t trust that much.
Are you using regular f10? Because that’s just a surface disinfectant. You’d want the F10 insecticide surface spray to treat for them specifically. And word is you can use a paper towel to wipe the snake down like the fipronil spray. I would just avoid using it on anything under 200 grams.
I’ve used frontline on rats before, but I would never try it on a snake. oils and ointments are not good on the scales. It can lead to fall off if overused.
Dealing with mites is a pain. I can’t speak for the poisons but predators are the way to go if you, like me, are hesitant to use chems and have natural vivs.
Whatever you do it will need to be done more than weekly. Except predators.
Here is what I do.
Put the snake in the bath . Add dawn after 10-15 minutes. Sterilize everything you can with hot water and disinfectant, if you use it. Vacuum. Spread food grade diatomaceous earth over everything that can’t be washed. Shelves, carpet, everything. Repeat wash and bath every 4 or 5 days unfortunately. If there are surfaces that the mites lay eggs on that you can see, brush lightly with something hot. Blow torch, hair dryer. The point is to cook them. Be exceedingly careful, get help if it’s a big job. Wipe down with hot water and disinfectant if possible. Get a water flosser. The kind used for teeth. Use it to pressure wash the mites off. Only put water in the flosser and label a pick for that use only. Start at the tail and work forward. It may upset the snake a bit but they get used to it and seem to enjoy the warm rain. I have used it on the snakes face and eyes, from a safe distance, without the snake reacting negatively. It’s warm rain. Be careful. Use the lowest pressure setting. Work up and down the sides as you move forward. If you look at the snake from the right angle, from behind, you will see them under the scales and your eyes will adapt to see them, quickly. Then, as you pull the snake from the bath, rinse it and your hands with water the same temp as the bath. Place snake back into sterilized cage or in tubs. Sterilize the bath tub and surface it sat on. Put the cage where they are away from the others. Sanitize hands. Do this to each snake.
In a 4x2x2, remove and bath resident, place in a tub. . Crank the heat to lethal levels (50°C or more)and leave it for a couple hours. Toss what cannot be cleaned. I.e. plants. Again, torch, blow dryer. Be careful.
I recently discovered that fleece(synthetic) is extremely hard to walk on without ripping your own legs off,if your a mite. Think climbing through a pile of sharp wire as big as a house. Like spiders they do not have coagulants in their blood so any injury causes blood loss. I might be a psycho because I enjoyed watching the mites throw a hairy coniption as they tear their own legs off. I watched with a microscope using mites I collected with a mouth vacuum. Yes, my life is empty. Use it to wipe the snake. Use it as a hide liner. I use shop rags. Wash or toss daily. I soak in boiling water then wash.
Stop squishing the mites as any eggs she is carrying can still hatch. Afaik. I’m overly cautious.
Invest in hand sanitizer and use it compulsively.
Chewing gum will help with the bruxism.
When your predators arrive,vacuum up the diatomite and release them. Wash hands, chew gum and stop pulling your hair, it doesn’t help and it’s only mites.
Fyi, the lower humidity is, the less eggs hatch. So if you can remove water and offer it individually, daily, great.
Hypoaspis miles has a limited effect but are useful. Cheyletus eruditis(taurrus) will kill for “sport” which is helpful that they kill more than they eat. They also like the environment in a snake cage.
Fipronil has been banned or restricted so frontline may be unavailable. Permethrin will lose use as the mites become resistant. Ivermectin is a paralytic for most affected and should be used with a vets advice and guidance.
If all that is too much(probably), time to consult your vet. Unless you want mite control as a new hobby.
To really eradicate mites you’ll need to go scorched earth.
If/when I think of anything else I will post it.
That would not happen unless the prey item was exposed to another infected snake. Where do you get your prey items from? If they are from places where other reptiles are present that could be the culprit right there. Thats why I personally breed my own feeders so I don’t have to worry about it.
What was the newest snake to your collection prior to discovering the mites?
Nope. Quarantined animals need to be in completely seperate rooms, and even then you still need to take extreme precautions… doing clothing changes and washing, thorough hand & arm washing with dish soap, tie back long hair if you have long hair. Its all about physical contact between infected individuals. Those mites can travel surprisingly well and far and cling to anything, its what they evolved to do to be able to thrive.
That is why its reccomended to also have minimal contact with any new reptiles for at least 30 days after arrival or onset of symptoms in “established” reptiles.
You will have to do this with the substrate of all your snakes and keep them on nothing but paper towel or plain inkless paper until you know for absolutely sure the mites are gone. Throw the substrate out in double bagged trash bags and do not leave the bag in your house trash can.
It sucks but you need to do it for the sake of your snake’s health. Taking care of these issues doesn’t always have an easy workaround unfortunately.
You will have to go scorched earth and clean every other day, clean the room your reptiles reside in thoroughly.
F10 as stated will not kill mites, soapy hot water or diluted cold bleach water work. Think about every possible spot they could be hiding and laying eggs and clean it. If you have carpet, steam cleaning will work. Food grade Diatomaceous Earth works if you have furniture that can’t be cleaned with the other methods and it can easily be vacuumed up, just make sure to wear a mask while working with it as it is a very fine powder.
This is self-explanatory but do not bring in any new animals to your home until the mites are eradicated. If you have pets with fur they’ll need baths too.
When I said this I wasn’t solely referring to your snakes. I was referring the room your snakes reside in. If it spreads to multiple snakes its considered bad because it means they have left the confinement of one snakes enclosure and are now free to breed, lay eggs, and roam to another host.
That’s super interesting, I hadn’t heard that before. I’ll have to keep that in mind if I ever get snake mites. I have loads of fleece in my house because of my chinchilla (fleece is the only fabric that’s safe to put in her cage).
I wonder if using fleece as a cage liner (instead of paper, for example) would help with an infestation. It wouldn’t be enough to get rid of the mites on its own, obviously, but it seems like limiting their mobility and potentially even causing some to die as they just try to walk around might be of some help in getting their population under control.
Or even setting the qt cage on top of a sheet of synthetic fleece… That way any wandering mites are crippled before they get away from the cage to lay eggs.
I noticed this when cleaning that the mites weren’t having a good time. It may not be the best solution but as part of a shotgun approach it is some help.
I don’t like the idea of toxic chems on my animals so I started collecting mites and experimenting on them. There is no way to build resistance to dead so I started investigating different things that would kill them. Extreme cold has some effect but heat kills much faster. I didn’t set out to use cloth but because I use rags for hide box stuffing I, of course, noticed the mites stuck in it and went to the microscope to watch. Pretty sure eggs would still be viable hence the par boiling.
The four principles of trapping are mangle, dangle, strangle and tangle. Who’da thunk? Most discoveries are made by accident.
I am now thinking of charging the fleece with diatomite and like @armiyana (thank you, Christina)suggests placing it under the cages to limit migration.
The same way you would make ivermectin to use on the animal.
Off label addition of water to the chemical. You will need to be careful to not use too much chemical to too little water.
I’ve never done it so I would make sure to find the dosage you need vs the strength of the product
As mentioned, please be incredibly careful on ratios if you choose to do something like the above, get it wrong and you could have problems. It’s safer than Provent-A-Mite, but not completely without risk. You can reference this post (and the thread it is in) for more suggestions as to mite treatments aside those listed here: