So I’ve been doing some research and can’t find any photos of an adult blue samurai Pac-Man. I can across a video talking about how they are lab created and don’t do well so they die young. And also they only use color enhancing foods to get the blue colors.
Is it true that blue samurai pac-man don’t make it to adults?
Here are some pictures of my male blue samurai.
Oh my goodness! I just bought a little samurai Pac Man last Saturday! He is so tiny but I have gotten him to eat yesterday and today. He is about the size of a nickel. I do hope he lives to adulthood!
I love your pictures!
Here are a couple of pictures of Green Bay PM frog in his hydrating spa!
There are adult “Samurai Blue” Pacmans floating around in a few collections, but they’re not really blue as adults. A lot of Asian frog breeders don’t really share the same values as many USA frog breeders, and the Samurai Blue Pacmans historically have been tampered with (adding supplements to increase the blue color leading to a shorter lifespan, or likely trying to genetically engineer a blue frog and failing, also causing genetic health problems). The Samurai Blues that are produced today should be healthy for the most part if they come from a quality breeder. Many people don’t raise their Pacmans correctly and fail to get them to adulthood, which is why you don’t see that many adult Pacman Frogs around in general compared to how many are sold and produced. Many Pacman bloodlines are extremely inbred as well which doesn’t help with longevity and hardiness.
Thank you for the information. I suppose it’s like a lot of things concerning animals bred for selling: it’s about the almighty dollar……but of course not in every situation.
Unfortunately my little guy has already passed away but it could have been my fault as well.
No more Pac Man frogs for this girl……
I’m sorry to hear that. Any ideas on what the problem might have been?
Thank you so much. He may have gotten too much heat. I had read no heat then definitely heat, too much, not enough.
However I am not sure how healthy he actually was when I got him. It was very difficult to get him to eat. One day he was fine and the next day he was gone.
Here he is the night before he passed away.
I think that’s one of the big reasons so many people lose their Pacman Frogs as babies. They only need a slightly warmer environment than what most people have as room temperature, and many people overdo it and heat them like you would a Leopard Gecko or Ball Python, leading the frogs to stroke out from overheating.
Honestly I think for the average new frog keeper Pacman Frogs are generally not the best animal overall. They’re not bad by any means, but they aren’t always receptive to eating common feeders like crickets, they are a bit picky with temps (too cool they won’t eat, too warm they stress out and die), and unfortunately some of the bloodlines are just so inbred that it seems their overall hardiness has gone down with time.
For a new frog keeper, I’d say Tomato Frogs are the perfect alternative to a Pacman if someone wants a ground dwelling frog. They are much more temperature tolerant, are very receptive to insect feeders (but will also eat mice), and are FAR less inbred as we still have wild caught bloodlines coming in from the wild.
Sorry! I just saw your response! I do agree with your opinion that Pac Man frogs are not ideal for new frog owners. I feel badly that I wasn’t knowledgeable enough to take care of my little guy. I am not a novice to snake and gecko keeping and I should have just stuck with that.
IMO it’s a shame that fragile little animals such as these are produced, sold, and then live such very short lives at the hands of inexperienced keepers such as me……
So my success with keeping Pac-Man frogs has come by way of simple husbandry. I keep them on repti soil mixed with zilla jungle mix. The carbon in the reptisoil helps with contaminates. Always substrate not water. I feel the frogs feel more secure. The soil is kept moist but not drenched. I only use distilled water to mist daily. Never tap or anything other types or water or conditioners. The bedding is about 3 - 4 inches deep on average. Maybe deeper for the larger frogs. I turn the soil regularly especially when I feed. This helps prevent mold from growing and allows oxygen to get down to the bottom of the habitat. Helps a lot to prevent that nasty sulfur smell. I always spot clean any feces. I keep them in small tanks and to be exact it is the critter keeper glass cages 8x8 inch. I use the critter keeper heating pads as well 4 watts. I don’t attach them to the glass I just let them sit under the tank but never direct contact. This prevents burning. The deep soil allows the frogs to thermo regulate themselves. I never feed in the tank. I always remove to feed. That way they don’t consume substrate. I never feed insects. I usually start the small ones on Hikari pac-attack. Then I transition to tilapia fillets. No powders no vitamins. Just tilapia. Once in a while I’ll feed pinkies. All the frogs are fed with tongs so basically trained. A little rub on the side of the mouth and they eat. I’ll change the soil maybe every third week or so. But it’s such a small amount it doesn’t cost much. And that’s basically it. Find a routine and you’ll have happy healthy frogs.
Great info! At what size/age you transition into the tilapia?