(edit: I have work, A LOT of work, to do on this still, help me ADD to this, any editing that needs to be done, explain why, rather than simply exchanging information)
Husbandry and Basic Information, primarily for indoor keeping
Chelonoidis carbonaria, Red Foot Tortoise
Habitat Needs and Recommendations: (in regards to indoor keeping)
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Substrate requirements: Red Foot Tortoises require a high level of humidity, about 60 - 80%, which requires substrate that can cycle moisture well without decaying, mixtures of soil, peat moss, etc, such as Zoo Med ReptiSoil, or blended coconut fiber with another similar substrate type, and it must be misted at least once a day to retain to appropriate level of humidity.
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Environmental Needs: Red Foot Tortoises need a variety of things to thrive, and building the enclosure properly is very important. Since humidity is highly important for this species, plants and mosses are recommended around the enclosure, there are also several grasses that can be planted and eaten by them safely. Because they like to, and need to, soak for a while every day, they need to be provided a clean water supply that they can safely climb in and out of, that isn’t too cold or too deep. They also need hides, something they can go in and feel safe inside, outside of the shell, and multiple locations for them and sizes should be provided, at least two. Keep plenty of hides and cover as they love to explore and find their perfect hiding spot. Red Foot tortoise enclosures require a sturdy wall, at least 16 inches in height above ground, as well as a few inches below ground, to prevent (or discourage) these tortoises from digging. Red Foot tortoises aren’t usually burrowing or digging tortoises, so this isn’t as much of a concern as it would be with other tortoise species. See-through fences and walls should not be used, as the tortoises tend to try to escape through or over these walls if they can see the other side.
Dietary Needs and Recommendations:
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Red Foot tortoises can be offered a wide range of fresh fruits and vegetables, and will need to be offered a variety, not kept on simply their “favorite food”.
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Leafy greens, such as spinach, romaine and similar are a staple, and should be shredded, as well as foods like apples, carrots, zucchini, strawberries, mango, blackberries, blueberries, and sources for protein like mushrooms, and smaller pieces should be cut up for baby and juvenile tortoises. Red Foot Tortoises are seasonal feeders, meaning as different plants produce “fruit” at different times of the year, their diet should also reflect this season variety. Wild food is generally plentiful as they will devour dandelions (greens and flowers), mulberry leaves and berries, grasses, grapes and leaves, etc. Occasionally, it’s acceptable to provide protein, such as with a dead rat… They will leave no trace behind from a jumbo rat (adult sized tortoise feeding). One useful tool for determining what is acceptable for tortoises to consume, and also not acceptable, is the Plant Database at The Tortoise Table, which gives a wide outline of different foods and plants that are edible for tortoises, with in-depth explanations of the reasons a food/plant is edible or not. Also, specifically for Red Foot Tortoises, another good source of information regarding diet can be found at Tortoise Town.
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Supplements, such as Calcium/D3 shouldn’t be be necessary, if there is a UVB light being used, which is important for the tortoise for vitamin D3 production, because it is essential for them to process the calcium from their diet.
Lighting, Heating and Humidity Needs and Recommendations:
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UVB lighting should be made available, especially if vitamin D3 and calcium aren’t being supplemented. Red Foot Tortoises are considered a dense forest species and get minimum direct sunlight, so while some UVB lighting may be beneficial, it is not considered entirely necessary for this species.
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Temperatures need to range from 68 °F (20 °C) at the lowest end to an ambient temperature of 80 °F (26 °C) - 88 °F (31 °C), with a basking zone of up to 95 °F (35 °C) being acceptable, and this can be achieved using an appropriate UTH, spot basking lights such as halogens, CHE/DHPs, all regulated by thermostat. Redfoots prefer temps in the mid to upper 80s (°F) but can tolerate temps in the 90s (°F). Extreme heat is not recommended and should be a cause for concern, especially when approaching upper 90s (°F) and beyond. Adults can handle short cycles of temps into the mid 50s (°F) and the most southern locales, into the low 50s (°F).
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Humidity should be above 60% and should not exceed 80% more than periodically. Humidity is the main concern related to shell pyramid. Proper humidity and hydration are key to keeping the shell smooth. Always allow for soaking even if it’s minimal. Redfoots love water.
Basic Interaction Info and Suggestions and Social Needs, such as how to approach and befriend your tortoise, if you’re a beginner, and how they tend to interact with their people, and other tortoises:
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Contrary to what many sellers tell customers, tortoises generally should not be handled with any regularity. They are easily stressed when over handled, and children tend to drop them when spooked. These stress factors can lead to a decline in a tortoise’s activity levels and health.
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Juvenile and older red-footed tortoises are generally more resistant to handling, but all tortoises should be handled carefully. Avoid pinning them down or restricting them. Allow them to carry on in their intended way, especially when they’re young. Older red-footed tortoises are usually pretty tolerant of people.
Basic Locale Differentials and Explanations
(From Reptiles Magazine article, Keeping And Breeding Red-Footed Tortoises)
By Terry Kilgore, Article written November 11, 2015 5:23 pm
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Chelonoidis carbonaria has not as yet had any subspecies determination. Specimens from the northern part of its range exhibit subtle physical differences and some tendency to follow a unique color pattern, but coloration has proven to be the least reliable method of identifying the origin of individuals. Factoring in the number of tortoises that were imported from the entire northern range, over a number of decades, it has become inevitable that locale hybrids/integrates exist in today’s breeding programs, making it increasingly difficult to identify individual origins.
Hybridization has become a controversial subject, especially in regard to redfoots from the southern portion the tortoise’s range, in Brazil, etc. There, physical differences are virtually nonexistent, yet coloration can be quite variable. These tortoises obviously differ in appearance from their cousins further north. -
So-called “cherryheads” were named by a group who imported tortoises that had been illegally trucked from Brazil to Paraguay (Brazil was closed for exportation at that time)—these tortoises displayed screaming red coloration on their head and legs. These importers figured that by calling these tortoises cherryheads they could sell them at a higher price—it was strategic marketing genius that worked! As a result, the name “cherryhead” has come to be used to describe all redfoots from Brazil, much to the detestation of many redfoot breeders today. Later also in the same article The exceptional red coloration on the heads of Brazilian redfoots led to them being given the name “cherryheads". From other resources, Cherryheads, as a sub species, are typically significantly smaller than other localities of Red Foot Tortoise, but aside from the bright red head and neck markings they retain into adulthood, they’re also discernable based on the black and darker plastron, or the undersides of them, Cherryheads are very easy to tell from other localities using this identification.
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(In regards to laying eggs) The only differences I have found among the different locales are the size and number of eggs that are produced. The three Colombian bloodline females averaged six to eight eggs, which were seldom larger than 15/8 inches. The two Guyana females, which were at least 1 to 1½ inches larger SCL and possibly 10 years older, laid eggs measuring 1¾ to 2 inches in length and averaged four to five per clutch (seldom six).
Because all the females were bred with the same Guyana males, I’m inclined to believe the Colombians lay smaller eggs traditionally.
Hatchlings, Juveniles, Breeding: This section is for what, if any, specific needs they have as hatchlings and juveniles.
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Red Foot Tortoises have a natural lifespan of about 50 - 60 years, and in captivity on average live to be in between 30 - 60. Red Foot Tortoises typically are sexually mature when they are about 7.5" - 9.5" (20 - 25 cm) long, usually at about 5 years of age.
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Hides need to be made available for smaller and younger tortoises, to help them in feeling safe and secure in their environment. Food needs to be chopped into small enough pieces they don’t choke and can tear off chunks as they go of fruits and vegetables.
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As with many reptiles, Red Foot Tortoise eggs are temperature gender dependent. Temperatures above 88 °F (31 °C) during incubation result in females and temperatures below 82 °F (28 °C) produce males. Temperatures between these ranges will produce a mix of genders. Incubation periods are from 115 to 150 days from laid to hatched, with 125 days being the average.