Care - Crested Geckos

Shown below is a basic care overview!


70-78°F (day-time)
65-78°F (night-time)


70-85% (Humid period)
40-65% (Dry-out period)

Enclosure size

2.5-5 gallons (Hatchings only)
8-15 gallons (Juveniles only)
20+ gallons (Adults and sub-adults only)


UVB reccomended, but not required


Commercial complete crested gecko diet(CGD), and optionally, Incects

Feeding frequency:

CGD 6-7 days a week (Hatchlings and juveniles)
CGD 4-6 days a week (Sub-adults and adults)
Incects x2 weekly maximum

Now lets go more in depth!


Crested Geckos are cold blooded, meaning they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature, when Crested Geckos are not provided with the correct temperatures, they are at risk of death. Crested Geckos tend to grow better when kept at the higher end to the range of temperature that is appropriate for them, but it can be more difficult to keep the humidity at the appropriate levels during the humid period, this is something the keep a close eye on when temperatures increase! Crested Geckos do best when provided with a temperature gradient and different day-time and night-time temperatures. Creating a temperature gradient can be as easy as providing your Crested Gecko with a low wattage UVB light! If temperatures fall too low, the best option for both day and night-time use, is utilizing a CHE(ceramic heat emitter) connected to a thermostat.


Crested geckos require both a humid period, and a dry out period. Increasing the humidity is most often achieved by misting the Crested Geckos enclosure, but be careful not to keep your Crested Gecko too wet, when kept too wet, it puts them at risk for skin and respiratory infections, refer to the basic overview for optimal humidity levels for both the humid period and dry out period. The dry out period should last for a minimum of 6 hours per day.


While not necessarily required, providing your Crested Gecko with a low level UVB light is recommended. UVB lighting positively effects the activity level, appetite, grow rate, and visibility of the Crested Gecko. However, many keepers choose not to provide their Crested Gecko(s) with UVB lighting, this has worked well for them for many years. When feeding Incects and not providing a UVB light, dust the Incects with calcium that has vitamin D3.


Crested Geckos require a complete crested gecko diet to survive, these include most diets made by Pangea Reptile, BP Zoological, Leapin Leachies, Repashy, and Lugarti. These diets should always be available to hatchling and juvenile Crested Geckos, but only need to be replaced every other day. Sub-adult and adult Crested Geckos should be fed based on their weight, but typically, it’s best for them to have food available 4-6 days of the week. Crested Geckos of all ages can also be fed Incects that are gut loaded and dusted, these Incects include, but are not limited to Crickets and Dubia roaches. A few Incects should not be fed more that twice weekly.


Crested Geckos commonly drink water droplets within the enclosure, but they should not be limited to this! Crested Geckos do utilize water bowls and should always be provided with one with clean water!

Enclosure options:

Crested Geckos can be successfully kept in a variety of enclosures. Most choose to house their Crested Geckos in glass enclosures, I prefer glass enclosures made by Zoo Med Laboratories, Exo Terra, and Thrive, these enclosures and great for visibility, ventilation, and you can easily place lighting on top on the enclosure! Crested Geckos can also be housed in various other types of enclosures, including PVC enclosures, some custom-made wooden enclosures, kritter keepers, and although debated, sterilite tubs with added ventilation. Regardless of the type of enclosure that you choose, make sure that it is vertically oriented and/or a minimum of 18 inches tall. Refer to the basic care overview for reccomended enclosures sizes based on the Crested Gecko’s maturity.

Inside the enclosure:

Crested Geckos will need a various places to hide, shed, and if the Crested Gecko is female, lay eggs. Hiding places most commonly consist of artificial and real leaves, be sure to provide plenty of these in your Crested Gecko’s enclosure! Crested Geckos need rough surfaces to shed on, I reccomend providing cork bark in your Crested Geckos enclosure, my Crested Geckos often use the cork bark in their enclosures to shed and hide behind and/or in! If you have a sexually mature female Crested Gecko, provide her with a place to lay, this can be a lay box, or substrate that is both moist and loose throughout the enclosure. Crested Geckos do always require a substrate of some kind, this can be as simple as paper towels, or as complex as bioactive substrate! Eco-earth is the most commonly used substrate.


If you choose to cohabitate your Crested Geckos, make sure you do it responsibly. I do not recommend that keepers in the beginning stages of keeping them cohabitate their Crested Geckos, having experience with the species will help you recognize to behaviors of the Crested Geckos involved. Cohabitating Crested Geckos can and has been done successfully many times, but choosing to cohabitate your Crested Geckos is still a very serious, and potentially dangerous decision. When done properly, cohabitating Crested Geckos is not the cheaper, easier or most space efficient option. If they have enough space, hiding places, are the same size, and there’s enough food for both, it is usually okay, but this is not a guarentee. Multiple male Crested Geckos should never be cohabitated together, they are very territorial and will fight each other in almost all cases. If a male and a female are housed together, they will reproduce. Females, and females cohabitated with one male, typically do well together, but this is never a guarantee. Some simply do not get along, so you have to keep an eye out for any signs of fighting and have an emergency setup ready in case one or both are injured. Some long term pairings have been reported to fail to thrive after being separated, so if you choose to cohabitate your Crested Geckos be prepared to do this until the end of their lives. Many keepers have found benefits in cohabitating their Crested Geckos, while many haven’t found any and would argue that it is too dangerous to attempt.

Please keep in mind that there is no one way to care for an animal, what is shown here is what has worked for me and my collection, along with some things that have worked well for other experienced keepers and their collections.


Have a care guide of your own? Let me know, I’d love to see it!

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This is my copy+paste “care guide” of sorts when people ask me the basics:

Keep in at least 12x12x18 but 18x18x24 preferred, can go smaller for babies. They need height!

Substrate should be able to hold humidity. Can he anything from bioactive, coco fiber, paper towels, mix in some sphagnum moss, etc. Keep babies on paper towel.

Should have lots of leaves and climbing branches. It makes them feel secure and provides enrichment. Include at least a couple mostly horizontal branches or ledges to rest on. Food ledge recommended.

Temperatures in the 70s. High temperatures (mid 80s) will kill them! If heat is needed, use a thermostat.

Humidity should be 50-80% ish, and should be allowed to fluctuate throughout the day. To best mimic their natural habitat humidity spikes in morning and evening and goes down in the middle of the day and middle of the night. You can achieve this through misting.

They don’t need special lighting but should of course have at least ambient light for circadian rhythm. Don’t use a red/night bulb. UVB is beneficial for all reptiles so use it if you’d like.

Feed repashy, pangea crested, zoomed, or BPZ gecko diet primarily, you can offer incects now and then if you’d like. I feed 3x a week but they have food available 6 nights a week (many like to eat day-old food). Note they don’t eat a ton, don’t be concerned if it seems they’re barely eating. I usually just feed enough to barely cover the bottom of the dish, and they very rarely eat more than half of that. Obviously fresh water should always be available.

Don’t cohab. Just don’t. Best case you’ll end up with some stressed geckos, worst case you’ll end up with one.

Obviously that’s pretty basic but should be a good jumping off point! Full disclaimer, I am but one keeper with one opinion on husbandry, please do your own research. Best of luck!


I love the idea of this page, however as stated above, opinions differ to essential care!

I have a guide as to what we do on our website Fox Reptiles

It’s a working progress though & may differ slightly to others. I feel insects are a huge part of crested Geckos diet, this is something they eat regularly in the wild. However I do have geckos that won’t eat insects, despite my efforts :woman_shrugging: I can see a huge difference in size with these geckos, however they are still healthy.



For instance all my hatchlings go straight into bio active set ups that are 25 tall, 35 long and 18.5 wide. Not everyone uses bio but I do and they thrive!
Then when they leave me that actually go straight into a 45x45x60 with no issues at all and live their best lives with their new owners!

Also you’ve said not to feed insects more than twice weekly, which again i don’t agree with personally.
2/3 even 4 times a week is perfect. In the wild cresties actually eat mostly insects! So we do crested gecko diet every other day and bugs 2/3 sometimes 4 times a week!

Temp wise ranges from 18-26 Celsius for uk people.
But I will say I have had it drop to 16 at night with no issues, and on rare occasion in the summer gotten to 30 (we then leave door to reptile outhouse open and window) Sometimes even now it can be 27/28 in the day but never been an issue. So don’t worry if goes slightly over.


Bumping this in case anyone else wants to add their care guides

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Hi im new to this forum, I have a question, is a enclosure that is a Hexagon Terrarium
Environment: Terrarium
Dimensions: 19.1 in L x 16.6 in W x 22.4 in H (42.2 x 40.6 x 56.9 cm)
Capacity: 20 Gallons (75.7 L) big enough for one crested gecko

Is slightly smaller than recommended. So I personally wouldn’t use.

the dimensions you listed aren’t correct as that is equal to about 31 gallons. it is small but could work for a gecko in the 20-35 gram range but I would upgrade to something bigger once the crested gecko gets over that.

What about a terrium that is 18x18x24 for a juvenile to adult size crested gecko

18x18x24 would be perfect.

As said 18/18/24 is the best size. X