I have a 50 gal tank. Not sure the exact measurements but its taller than it is wide. Originally an aquarium. My question is: is 1 150w ceramic bulb enough to keep my temperatures where they’re supposed to be? I ask bc I just set it up tonight and it’s seeming to take awhile to heat up.
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That’s going to be tough to determine as it’s going to depend somewhat on the ambient temps of the room your tank is in. If if it’s already in an 80 degree room, then it probably would be sufficient. If it’s in a 50 degree room, it definitely won’t. I am thinking you will likely need a higher wattage one for a tank that size, but it depends.
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Too many variables to consider. A under-tank heat pad will help you achieve better results because an animal can bury into substrate to regulate. The variable in this case is where you place the hide spot, which is where the animal likely spends the bulk of it’s time.
Large tanks supply a nice floor space, but us keepers are responsible in relating the heat that is desired, versus a comfortable hide. This matters because a hiding spot will likely be chosen regardless of temperature. You can put the hide area in the coldest spot, and the snake will still prefer that if it isn’t disturbingly cold. Try to hit 87 to 90 in temps and provide the hide spot there. This will promote security and proper digestion at the same time. Watch your animal’s behaviour to accommodate any changes as needed. Heat guns will help far more than stick-on thermometers.
Heat Lamps can work but you spend more time guessing, and most decent hides will mask the temp the animal is actually seeing. Heat lamps will also demand that you adjust the distance between the object being heated. Too large of a tank? The closer the heat lamp. It can result in a heating element being close enough to burn an animal. A tall tank is at higher risk.
I am a strong proponent of rack systems. Tanks can work, they just take a lot more attention, and suffer a lot more variability/risk factors.
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As others were saying, it is difficult for us to come up with a good answer. What are the room ambient temps where the enclosure is being kept? Also, does it have a screen top? Or is it something different. Is the tank insulated? If not, you can look at doing that to also help with it retaining heat. With a glass enclosure, it will take much longer to reach the proper temps than it would with a plastic or wooden enclosure as the glass will lose heat to the room far quicker than the other types of enclosures.
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Okay, update: The ambient room temp is ab 68-71 degrees. It is a screen top. It is not insulated. (How can I do that?)
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To insulate it you can just wrap 3 sides in an insulating material like foam or fabrics. You could also cover part of the screen top with plexiglass, glass, or aluminum foil.
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Hot side is left, I have my digital thermometer right under the ceramic bulb and it still only reads 68-70?? These are also my ambient temps.
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Glass doesn’t insulate heat very well. Ambient temperatures aren’t too important with reptiles. The important temperatures are surface temperature. I would recommend getting an infrared thermometer and measuring the substrate surface and then making changes.
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I would recommend a different enclosure all together. That lid doesn’t look the most secure and if you do get the temps corrected and he gets active it won’t take him long to find a way out. Try your local reptile shop or online, not big box, they should have something better suited that will solve all these issues.
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I have two of these for a corn and king. Both set to turn off at a certain temperature and they Have been doing great in them.
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It is actually quite secure. It doesn’t look like it but it’s sealed off tight. But a quick update for everyone: I have my temps PERFECT. Thank you to all for your wonderful opinions and suggestions.
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Make sure you block out 3 sides of the tank and add a ton of cover in the form of fake plants. It needs around 80-90% covered to make sure the BP feels safe. Make sure your humidity is good with a quality digital reader (not just the little stick on readers) as well. Humidity will be a pain to keep in that enclosure with a heat lamp and screen top. I recommend a UTH with a good thermostat too (JumpStart brand is the cheapest I would go). Belly heat is more important as these guys don’t bask.
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Is it weighed down to were it can’t be pushed up? If not, then it isn’t secure.
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Here are some pictures when I made it. You can see on the inside of the overhang I installed blocks for no gaps and escape. The whole top itself is about 40lbs and I’m quite the skilled carpenter so I assure you it’s tight like a giant Tupperware lid. It takes two of us to take it off.
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Thank you! The humidity is quite high already. I’ve read about 60% is the way to go. My gauges are reading around 70%. I keep the substrate moist and for now I keep the screen covered with towels and it brought the temp right up. I also went out and bought a 50 gal heat mat. I keep lamp on cold side. Hot side soil temp is 93° and my cold is about 80. I will look into digital hydrometer though. Everything else is digital so i might as well lol
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By moist, do you mean damp to the touch, or that you spray the substrate? Moist is a just a word that a lot of people lump together with wet, damp and in turn - scale rot becomes a concern. All I’m saying is where I am keep my humidity between 60-70% my substrate is not moist, I spray my enclosure, putting more liquid into the air and not directly into the substrate.
Yes I sprayed the inside of the enclosure.