we recently got a blood python a few weeks ago. he had been fed both live mice and frozen
when we bought him they were currently feeding him live bc he was being picky with the frozen
we have attempted to feed him a few times now and have had no luck. weve tried both frozen and live and he just doesnt seem interested in eating anything.
im getting a little worried now though, im not sure if hes still adjusting to a new home or what
Well…first thing is first. Welcome to the Community. These are things that were suggested to me when I joined this amazing community.
One! How recent did you get your Blood python? He could still be adjusting to his new environment/enclosure.
Two. Are the temps in the enclosure spot on? And the humidity?
Three. Do you know what they were feeding your Blood python at the reptile store? Was it mice? Was it rats? Could be that he’s not interested in what you’re giving him cause it was not what was being fed?
I would start there. These could be things that might not be in order and are making your little guy stressed. Also they don’t wither away overnight. Don’t stress yourself out it will take a lot of time for them to starve. I’m positive that more experienced keepers here will come in with great advice.
Oh! Before I forget. They’re gonna wanna see pictures. Haha we love pictures around here.
we got him on the 30th of last month. so super recent. i did think that he could still be adjusting, and that could be a factor. this type of snake is pretty new to me.
ive been around snakes before growing up and we also currently have a corn snake as well and he adjusted pretty fast so maybe im in that mindset with my new guy.
they were feeding him mice which is what we stayed with. im thinking maybe his enclosure is too open? i read up a bit as well and saw that them not feeling secure can be a factor as well.
and yes, pics will come soon! i have to get some good ones
What type of enclosure is he in? Does he have plenty of cover to hide? A snake will not eat if it does not feel secure enough. He needs plenty of hides such as cork bark plastic hides etc.
Also bloods need several inches of substrate to burrow in if it wants. In the wild they lay in wait in burrows or things similar to nab their prey as it ventures by.
Something is not quite right with your husbandry/set up because bloods are great eaters. Please provide pictures and details of temps, humidity etc. My guys are in tubs with lower heat as compared to bps. I have uth and no lighting.
Edit to add: Also are you handling him a lot! A new snake needs to stay cozy and comfy for awhile after being introduced to a new environment. A week or even two of being totally left alone except for maintaining water is the best. And how often are you attempting to feed? You should wait a week between feeding attempts. Also it’s best to stay with ft. If he ate ft before he will eat it again.
he has at least 3-4 inches of substrate in his enclosure. im at work right now but can get a few pics of what ive got for him currently. im planning to get him more hides later this week. and hes only been handled once - twice since we’ve gotten him.
i currently dont have anything to show humidity or temp yet, i have to get a replacement for that as well.
and we’ve def been trying to feed him too often then if thats the wait time!
what do you recommend the temp and humidity levels to be?
I recommend around 85 on the warm end. Some say 86 to 88 but I think 88 is too high because if your blood gets too hot he will not be happy physically and mentally.
Humidity should be around 60 percent and of course a bit higher when in shed. Also be aware that ST’a including bloods do not poop nearly as much as other snakes. They can go for months without pooping as a matter of fact. But they do pass urates more often.
However it is a good idea to check your guy every so often if you don’t see urates because sometimes bloods can develop problems with the urates hardening and becoming difficult to pass. My boy had a few problems with this at first but a bit of soaking and coaxing helped him pass them and it has been smooth sailing since then.
In the wild STP’s sit/lounge around waiting for their meal. They let their bottom halves get nice and thick and chunky so that they can serve as “anchors” if you will when they lunge at their prey. At least this is the way I understand it anyway…….
I’ll be honest, I’m slightly at a loss on how to help, because my blood python has never refused a meal. She’ll happily eat thawed rats at room temperature with no zombie rat dance, so the idea of a blood python refusing food is a little alien to me.
But first and foremost, make sure your husbandry is on point. STPs like things a bit cooler than some species, so make sure his hotspot isn’t warmer than 85-86F, and make sure his humidity is in the 60-75% range. Make sure he’s got plenty of cover in the form of deep substrate, hides, and clutter like fake plants, cork bark, etc. (In a pinch, you can just loosely crumple some paper or paper towels and toss those in there.)
Also make sure you’re not offering food too often, as this can stress out a snake who is already feeling nervous. I’d say offer no more than once every 7-10 days. You can try leaving a thawed, warmed rodent on a plate in the enclosure with him overnight. While my blood girl has always been a great eater, she initially wouldn’t strike her prey off the tongs for the first few feedings with me, so I just left the rodent in with her overnight and it was always gone the next morning (just don’t do that with a live rodent for safety reasons).
I just saw this. You really need a thermometer and hygrometer ASAP. STPs are not as tolerant of husbandry mistakes as snakes like corns. Their health can decline much more quickly. It’s very important to stay on top of all their environmental needs, and you can’t do that without knowing what your levels are. This may well be why your boy isn’t eating.
I agree with @jawramik on the plate. Leave a warm thawed prey item just outside the hide box opening, overnight.
Also, stps like something on their backs. I personally use towels just be careful that it doesn’t get eaten accidently. I have also used corn husks and paint trays. Situate it low enough that they have to squeeze under it. Keep the cage dark and humidity @ 70 or more in the hide.
Bloods can easily go without food for 3 to 4 weeks when young so don’t stress if it doesn’t eat right away.
Once they figure out food is good you’ll have to get loooong feeding tongs because despite them being jabba the blood, they will actively come out and maul their food. And they can hit tremendously hard. Like a baseball bat with teeth, be careful.
Learn to read the body language it will save you from having to have a pythonectomy in the future.
Any further questions or concerns, reach out, we’re here, the community, if you need us.
P.s. It starts with one. Lol. (I have seven)
