Is this a cappucino?
Looks like it to me, the distinct V at base of tail for one, and also the color are pretty strong indications to me that this is a cap.
Likely, but the only way to tell is to breed it out or know it’s lineage. If you don’t have any lineage you can pair it to a LW without any EB or phantom and see what you get.
The v-shape has proven to not be a good indicator as it most likely is tied to pinstriping rather than capp, but i agree that the colours do seem to fit.
Thank you! I currently have paired to a LW and am hoping to have my first eggs hatch within the next month.
Good luck to you,
Also if your a new breeder, please know that patients is everything. If they’re rushed (kept too warm to hatch faster) the babies will hatch prematurely, possibly seem healthy but not eat, poop, or shed properly leading to death within about 10 days of hatching. Anything under 60 days from egg being laid to hatching greatly increases the chances of this happening and every day after 60 lowers chances slightly with each passing day. With that being said, waiting a little longer for eggs to hatch far outweighs being impatient and getting to see them sooner, experience the hatching and all that goes with it just for them to more than likely not live. I am not saying if they’re under day 60 they will 100% die but It is not worth the risk, you want all your babies to live and be healthy. My first ever clutch pipped at day 54 and one died (didn’t make it out the egg) and the second one made it out but had all the issues I listed above, and died about 10 days after hatching, hence I absolutely learned my lesson. Patients is key. You want to shoot for NO LESS than 70 days, and I recommend 75-80+. Lower temps to achieve this (71-74 degrees ish fluctuation).
Even if you know this stuff already I like to spread knowledge in the hopes that somebody will read this and it will help them.
Absolutely! I am an experienced hobby breeder(have bred cresteds for about 5 years), but just recently got back into it. My eggs typically hatch around the 90 day to just under 90 day mark. Thank you for putting this info out there for those just coming into the hobby!
Im sorry about your experience, and it’s lovely that you want to warn people, but as long as you’re within the temperature range (usually 20-26c) you’re usually fine, regardless of how long/short they’re in the egg. Lower temps usually means longer incubation, and higher temp usually means shorter, but usually is the key-word. Genetics also seem to matter, and possibly other unknown factors. I keep mine at room temp (around 23c/73-74f), and all 13 of my hatchlings this season hatched in the 60-day range. Had a few that didn’t make it, but it was for different reasons (temp spike during incubation in one of my egg-tubs, one was a partho, one happened to be alive in an egg that i cut cause i thought it was gone, and would’ve never made it out the egg on it’s own anyway). I know other people who incubate at room temp as well, around the same temp as me, whose eggs hatch in the 80-day range. All this to say, if the temps are ok, the gecko will hatch when it hatches, no need to be overly worried about hitting a specific number of days