Hi all, my name is Alice. Im a stay at home mom looking to get into hobby breeding, and possibly further depending on my results. I chose ball pythons because i love the idea of creating a stunning one of a kind morph combo that no one else has sold on MorphMarket before, and i love genetics. Ball pythons have more traits than any other reptile that ive noticed, and theyd be perfect for raising my son around. Ive learned quite a lot on my own. Ive been researching since early february and have a few ideas for what i want, like avoiding the Spider morph, and incorporating GHI into my plans, but i feel like having a human mentor could help me. Feel free to comment any advice you may have to a newcomer below, or shoot me a private message. Im open to any and all advice or constructive critisism
Hi and welcome to the community. 
Maybe not what your looking for, but-
If you post specific questions in separate posts you will always get number of knowledgeable people replying.
Edit: as for a tip. Dont rely on one male for your main breeding plan.
Have a back up male.
I have had both the problems below due to that in the past.
So I’m going to start off with the cons of breeding Ball Pythons as a person who breeds Ball Pythons and a few other species.
•Ball Pythons can be picky eaters, especially mature males. Some will only eat live, some only eat f/t, some will only eat mice, some will only eat ASFs… I only have 1 BP that will take f/t, my 2 females refuse to acknowledge f/t as food, no matter how much and how many methods I’ve tried to get them on f/t.
•Ball Pythons get large, while a far cry from other Python species they definitely still get to considerable sizes. This makes housing them more tasking and costly, as well as feeding them properly.
•The oversaturated market… there are easily over 40,000 ball pythons for sale on Morphmarket alone. Many breeders and sellers don’t see any BP sales for quite a few years, if any at all. A lot of people end up selling BPs at a very reduced price or just outright giving them away if they don’t land a trade. So you’ll need to be prepared to keep offspring well into adulthood
This will sound harsh but there are so many BP morphs at this point that creating a “one of a kind” is very unlikely and not incredibly significant in the BP world, unlike other species.
Creating a “one of a kind” also takes a lot of work, many years and a lot of money which will put you in the negative. Don’t expect any kind of profit unless you are investing thousands of dollars into morphs and buying the highest of the high-end snakes.
For example my breeding trio of BPs cost me around 1800 just for the snakes alone, and thats for pretty basic morphs (Banana, Mystic, Pastel, Lesser, Cinnamon, and BEL [Russ/Less]).
I just produced a clutch of 5 that will only get me around $1k if I get decent sales. That barely scratches the cost of the breeding trio, their housing, care, and diet.
So if you do decide to breed, do it to enjoy it as a hobby.
•There are a few morphs that fall under the Spider Complex that can have a wobble, its not just the Spider Morph by itself. There are also super variants of morphs that can have problems, like Super Cinnamon, for example.
Now for the pros.
•Ball Pythons can breed year-round as long as conditions are met, they are also easy to breed. They don’t require true brumation for the females to start building egg follicles.
•Ball Pythons handle very well even as hatchlings so they make great pets for someone who wants something docile and calm, and they don’t take very long to begin socializing.
•There are a lot of morphs to work with that provide many different colors and patterns so it can be fun and exciting to combine and breed them. Just be sure to do your research on what morphs are safe and appropriate to breed together, and what will actually work out breeding together as there are recessive genes, incomplete dominant genes/co-dominant genes, and dominant genes.
Also watch out for breeding genes that are genetically the same, such as Banana and Coral Glow. Its frowned upon to breed them because it can muddy the lines of which one is which.
I’m sure there will be someone with deeper knowledge of genes to help you out there.
Now for tips:
•Females need to be at least 1500 grams and 3 years to breed.
•Males need to be at least 800 grams and one year to breed.
•Ball Pythons need to eat 10% of their body weight in rats every 10 days. For example a 1500 gram BP will need 150 gram rats.
•Ball Python eggs need to be incubated at 87-89°F. They should hatch 55-65 days at this temp. Female BPs can self-incubate eggs but it might be better to incubate in a proper incubator so you can monitor the eggs closely for changes.
•Spend a few years familiarzing yourself on Ball Python care before you ever consider to breed, and buy your BPs young so you can know how to care for them at every life stage.
•When you buy your BPs, ask for lineage info and pictures of the parents before you buy. This will give you an idea of what to expect as far as genes and what your BPs will look like as adults.
There will be more on this list that can go into deeper details so if you have any questions lmk.
Wow, thats 
pretty comprehensive and I agree with all of it. good advice.
The only thing I would add is have a good read of other discussions here, and use the tools like the morphmarket calculator and Morphpedia
Im sure others have more tips
@alicedth One very important thing that you will need - access to a reputable reptile vet. There are any number of things that can go wrong with breeding such as your female getting egg bound. Other things are babies that won’t eat, or born deformed and/or need to be euthanized, etc. As a breeder you will be morally and ethically responsible for any and all babies you produce as well as the health of the parents.
In addition you could very well end up with a clutch that doesn’t sell quickly so you will have to support those babies until you find homes for them, which can get expensive. Reptile vets are quite pricey as well……
@cmsreptiles already gave you a ton of great info
The oversaturated market and the cost of producing the first ‘one of a kind’ animal are definitely things to think about.
5 years in and I am still in the negatives with my hobby. Lol.
@caron is definitely right on needing to know a good reptile vet in your area before breeding. I actually had a scare last year with my favorite breeder male and a sudden severe infection. I sadly lost him, but knowing where to go for the necropsy and testing was definitely a load of my mind.
And touching on more of what was brought up about spider morph. It’s definitely the most demonized morph in the ball python community. It’s a bit ridiculous seeing champagne or hidden gene woman being bred in a lot of combos when it can also cause wobble.
Blackhead and spotnose are VERY popular genes in the spider complex. And working around breeding projects with these will be necessary if you want to avoid wobbling animals. Super blackhead and super spotnose can wobble.
The other two to watch out for as a new breeder would be the Desert or Caramel Albino genes. Both can have fertility issues and eggbinding, caramel albinos can also have kinks. Don’t be fooled into buying one while you’re looking for Desert Ghost or Ultramel or toffee albinos.
There’s a whole thread dedicated to problems in ball pythons. There’s quite a bit to be aware of. So genes are always great to research before just jumping in