My leopard gecko bean has done this twice now, I feed him after the lights go out, because they are apparently nocturnal. We don’t have night heat because my mom said it’s fine but I still want to check. Bean has done this twice (the heat was off). A few minutes after eating he vomits up his worms, some of them are even still alive, they are all whole… does he just need more heat??? Please help, it makes me worried and I don’t think my mom will do anything if I can’t convince her that experienced people say stuff, I just want to know how to fix it, also how many super worms should they eat? Do they need smaller food? Lentil seems to do fine and she’s smaller than him.
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What are the temps in the habitat? Both day and night. A small dip is okay but extreme dips can be bad for them. Temps can be a concern for sure, but him regurging live worms is another issue entirely… Also, as far as the non-living ones… it’s definitely regurged? Sometimes if they aren’t digesting properly they pass little turd shaped piles of worms.
Superworms might be too tough for them especially if they haven’t eaten them regularly before that. Also superworms can pack a nasty bite so if he isn’t properly killing them and they’re alive when he regurged, you need to crush the heads and see if he’ll take them of tongs for you.
It could also be that he’s eating too many at a time. Again, an issue that would be from not eating them as often.
I usually stick with mostly mealworms and some dubia roaches for mine. The mealworms are too small to really worry about causing much damage and they’re not as tough. They can also be refrigerated to keep them going a bit longer. Supers will die in the fridge and they do eat each other more readily than mealworms as well.
I’d try feeding him smaller meals with smaller prey items for a few days. I like to leave vitamins and calcium powder in with my Leo’s all the time, but if you haven’t, make sure to dust the prey first or use a dish with the powder in the bottom.
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Idk what it’s called, but there was a pile of worms, I saw him cough it up. Most of them were dead, but some crawled away, in the day time the warm side is usually around 86 and the cold side is around 80, do we need a new light? Also at night it’s around 75 I think, but I can’t really remember. Do they need heat at night? Or a better day light? They have a uvb right now, and no night heat, which makes me worried but my mom said other people think it’s fine… idk what do you think?
Also about the super worms, I was worried about that, the biting I mean, they just look like they could bite lol. I can try that 
or the Dubias and mealworms, which option is better? He was eating the super worms at the pet store, but I still think it might be better to switch…
I have a dish of calcium in their enclosure, we just got some vitamin powder too, so I’m gonna add that as well.
Sorry if this message is chaotic, but I just want to make sure I don’t do anything wrong and hurt him. How often and how much should I feed him? I’ve been feeding them every few days because that’s what I heard was right, and I fed them until they weren’t hungry anymore, but I think that info was bad, can you help me with that? Sorry if I’m being annoying.
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It’s okay! You’re worried about your little guy so chaotic happens.
If you saw him cough it up it’s definitely a regurge.
If he’s used to worms I would try the mealworms first since they look so similar. You can always add some variety when he is eating normally in the future.
If it’s 75F at night then he technically would be fine. But you need to remember that these little guys are more active in the dark, so if you’re using only an overhead light, you may want to switch to something like a heat pad or a ceramic heater (use thermostats for either!) because they can be on 24/7 and not emit any form of light.
They’re originally from the Middle East, and they come out at night while everything’s still warm from the sun. So they like temperatures to be closer to 88-92. If you only provide heat in the day they might become more active in the day, but it’s not guaranteed. I would just make sure the hide is nice and warm inside at daytime at least. A hot spot of 80 at night is still okay, but if the temps do dip under 70 at night that can affect them in the long term.
UVB is a bit of a debate. Some people use it, others don’t. It’s not bad to give them access to it. It can be beneficial, but it’s not required for them to metabolize calcium like a bearded dragon or iguana. Honestly, if I had to choose, I would make sure to have the higher temps at night than to have UVB in the day for them.
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Ok, I really appreciate you, thank you so much. It’s really nice when people can be helpful and understanding, while not being super judgmental. I’ll look into everything you said . Thanks
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That’s definitely one of the upsides this community has. =D
There can be some really toxic groups that really stick to one form of keeping and dogpile anyone who doesn’t.
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Hi, I’m at PetSmart, it’s ok if you can’t respond in time but are these items good?
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I would think that these should work for you. Leos definitely need heat 24/7.
Good luck!
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Ok thanks! I feel bad for making them so cold.
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Is the same temp day and night better or not? Should it be colder at night?
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Don’t feel badly. You didn’t know but you do now. You are doing the right thing!
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Sorry I didn’t see it sooner! Yes those are perfect!
You wanna sandwich the probe between the pad and the bottom and then set it to 88 or so to be safe.
The temperature of the bottom of the enclosure is what you want to adjust the thermostat for. It’s okay for the t-stat to say something like 94f as long as the bottom itself stays at something like 88f. That will help keep a risk of burn down.
I’d just keep the temp constant it will be easier to avoid mistakes.
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Ok, thanks! I had some extra time tonight so I set up the new enclosure . Please critique if there’s anything wrong, I don’t wanna mess it up…
It has rubber feet and I sandwiched the thermostat
Should I change the settings on the thermostat? Are they usually accurate? I switched it to 94.
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He’s in his new enclosure, he’s hiding out in the moist hide. I heard him clicking a bit so I think he’s a little stressed out from the move, but hopefully this will be better, he’s in my room now so it should be quieter and more reliable as far as lighting, hopefully he can settle in soon…
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Great job! I’m sure he will come around for you!
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Looking good so far!
I would just consider having a couple more things for him to mess around with. As far as the carpet, if it starts getting too ‘fuzzy’ after washing it, I would replace it. The newer ones are much safer than they used to be, but after a while they still get the little hooks and fibers loosened where a gecko can hook their toes.
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Okay, I thought so too, but I wasn’t sure what would be good, what do you think would be good to add? And yeah, I’m gonna replace the carpet after it gets fuzzy, thanks!
You can always use paper towels. My little girl tends to go in one spot so I just layer some small strips of paper towels in that area and then peel them away one at a time.
But of course this is just a suggestion for you…
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Oh ok, that’s fine with the heat mat right? Thanks, if so I’ll replace the mat with paper towels when it’s time to replace it
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Yes I have UTH as well and the paper towels work fine!
Edit to add: I feed my girl regular meal worms and small crickets btw. But I make sure she eats all the crickets. I do not use UVB either. She has access to calcium and vitamins. I am not telling you to not use UVB though. It’s your preference.
You can always rearrange the cage furniture and change out different pieces such as fake plastic, paper towel rolls etc to climb on and tunnel through. Use your imagination. I am sure your little guy will appreciate it!
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