I’m new to this community and also new to snake ownership
I recently rescued this snake from a “class pet” situation where she was doubled over in a tiny 3x1x1 glass aquarium (I measured her at about 6’5). Her name is Snake (inherited… not very creative lol). She’s so gentle and sweet. I’ve been doing a ton of reading and research in trying to create the best home possible for her. The rescue situation was a little sudden so I’m learning as I go and I would love some help answering a few questions!
Ok here goes:
My best ID attempt is to say that she is a BCI? Her previous owner told me she was a “ball python” which I know can’t be right… thoughts?
How is her weight/ body condition? I’ve been trying to calibrate how much/ how often I should be feeding her, but I’d love to know if her current weight reflects an appropriate body composition. I can’t really tell if she is too skinny/ too fat.
Lastly, I was able to cheaply procure a 6x2x2 PVC enclosure for her, back when I thought she’d be a 4-5’ ball python. Now I’m reading that maybe 6x3x3 might be more appropriate, or something with more vertical climbing space? Compared to her old digs this enclosure is like a castle but I’m still worried it’s too small. Let me know thoughts on this.
I’ve got it set up with a VE RHP with a herp stat on one end, temp gradient goes from 75 degrees to about 88. There is a basking slate under the RHP. I also have a UVB bulb. Do you think this is fine re: heating?
Thanks for your advice! She already seems much happier/ more curious and relaxed but I want to make sure everything is ok. Am eventually looking towards bio active but have heard that is harder with heavier bodied snakes.
If you can get a full body photo from above I think that may be able to help more on the body condition. The last photo does make her look on the thin side, but she isn’t as bad as I’ve seen in rescue situations.
@tommccarthy is probably the best at IDing and spacial recommendations.
I’m on mobile atm but if I get back to my desktop before he pops on the forums, I have a link to some of his info sheets I can leave
Thanks so much! I think not all of my photos uploaded lol sorry about that. This is as close as I have to a full body image but I can try again later if it would help to see more of her body.
She is a Boa, though without knowledge of lineage there’s no real way to know for sure if she’s BCI or something else like BCC. They can be cross-bred so thats why its not certain
She actually looks pretty good in this reguard. Seeing that she is maybe a foot smaller than my BCI I’d say she’s around 20-24lbs.
I’d feed her a Jumbo rat or small rabbit once a month.
For large Boas like her, bigger is better. Slight vertical climbing space is good, just be mindful that she will need very sturdy hardscape firmly secured in place to climb.
However for now, until she adjusts to being in a new home, she is ok staying in the 6x2x2.
Her temps are perfect
UVB is optional, Boas are nocturnal so there may be debate on whether or not its necessary. As long as its not left on for more than 10 hours and has good distance from her level its not going to hurt her.
I don’t reccomend Bioactive for Boas. They will crush and smother the plants… and plus their bioload is way too much for bioactive cleanup crews (isopods & springtails)
Quoting this because it is a common phrasing, not because I’m arguing with any person who might say it.
UVB is not necessary for boas. Showing something isn’t necessary is very easy – you can do it with a counterexample or two. It isn’t hard to find a couple captive boas that are doing all the things they should without UVB.
“Not going to hurt her” is about the lowest bar possible in the way of recommendations. It is like a restaurant review that gives as its highest praise ‘I didn’t get sick’. Also, unless the lamp is protected from snake abuse and water intrusion (I’m assuming this is a solid-topped enclosure, given the mention of an RHP) it could indeed hurt her when the snake smashes the lamp or sprayed water hits it and it pops.
One issue with UVB is that of giving choice by providing gradients. A six foot snake in a six foot enclosure with a heat gradient has roughly a 3 x 2 area if it wants to be warmer and a 3 x 2 area if it want to be cooler. Now, if a UVB choice is going to be offered, and if it is to be offered so the snake can choose to use it (rather than: if the snake pokes its head out it better want a tan) when warmer or when cooler, those are going to be small areas. Add to that a choice of moisture gradient. Add also a choice of hides in each zone. Adding an unnecessary parameter forces the snake to make choices it wouldn’t otherwise have to, and if for example it wants to avoid the UV it might to that rather than chose the temp or moisture level it wants – and that wouldn’t be good. Basically every herp enclosure is too small to use UVB for no real reason, if we think that giving animals a basic ability to self-regulate is good care.
“Good distance” means something very different if the lamp is a 24" 2.5% lamp compared to a 48" 14% lamp. What would be good here are measured UVI levels correlated to long term first hand snake observations by knowledgeable keepers.
Given that this is the keeper’s first rodeo, they not only don’t have a baseline understanding of the snake but also don’t know what’s normal for the species. They won’t know if the UVB is causing an issue (or being beneficial, for that matter – many UV recommendations boil down to ‘I’ve used UV on all my herps since I got them and they’re all going great so of course UVB is beneficial’), and since there’s no reason at all to offer it, it seems a non-starter.
