I should be able to breed my adult corn snakes next year but was wondering on how the best way to store them would be? I believe I’m only going to have about 1 or 2 clutches. If anyone can help me with this thanks.
3 Likes
I’ve been using 6qt latching sterilite bins.
3 Likes
Thanks but what would be the best way to include the heating or thermostat?
2 Likes
I personally don’t use heating, so this isn’t an issue for me, but you could use shelving and heat tape.
2 Likes
Ok thanks but I thought that they needed the heating?
1 Like
You’ll hear all sorts of things about whether they do or don’t. It kind of depends on your ambient temps. I’m no expert, this is my first year, but I haven’t had a single issue with digestion, regurgitation, or any other issues of note. I should mention my animals are kept in a small bedroom with AC on a thermostat, so I give them a day/night temperature variation. The AC is intermittent as well, so there is a more “natural” temperature fluctuation throughout the day. Your situation may differ, so I’d see what works for you.
Paging @caryl and @solarserpents since they’ve much more experience than I do.
5 Likes
Ok thanks helping where you can
1 Like
I also forgot to note, my daytime temps are kept between 75ºF-85ºF and all of my animals have a water bowl hide for cooling. Nighttime I go down to about 69ºF.
2 Likes
If you’re just doing one or two clutches, 6 qt shoebox containers work well. They’re quite large for new hatchlings, but work well for holdbacks or if babies don’t sell quite as quickly as you hope. This year I used these Walmart brand 6 cup containers for my babies because they had much more secure lids that don’t require clips or a rack. When looking at containers, make sure to choose tall enough ones that a water dish can fit without touching the lid and that the gap between the water dish and the lid is wide enough that a baby won’t get stuck.
As for heat, heat tape with a thermostat will probably be the easiest option. I’ve done heat tape and ambient heat in the past. Ambient is great if you have a warm enough room, but it always makes me a little nervous about regurges!
5 Likes
Ok thanks I’ll make sure to get some of those tubs then
1 Like
Good on you for planning ahead, @shadowspiderjack ! I’ve tried several methods, and honestly corn snakes are a pretty flexible species. Little youngsters are more delicate than older snakes, and it’s really important to try and prevent any regurges with them. They’re also quite small when they hatch; a secure bin is imperative. There are quite a few ways to achieve these goals, fortunately.
I’ve tried several approaches which have worked fine over the years. What I’m doing now meets their current needs and mine, but it’s far from the only way to do things. I incubate and keep babies in a room with ambient temps between 82-86°F. Eggs are fine with temps in the high 70°s, but I find that too chancy for babies’ digestion. After hatching, I move babies into individual deli until after they’ve shed, eaten and passed their first meal or two. Then they go into 96 oz McCormick food storage containers or latching 6 qt bins, depending upon how many I have. I’ve got a couple in “critter keepers,” too, because I already had them & they are secure. They don’t stack well but they’re fine on the top shelf.
In other years with just a clutch or two, I’ve put them in shoebox size and/or 8"x8"x4" containers on a baker’s rack with heat cable or tape. If you go this route, it’s crucial to set it up and check temps inside the containers prior to putting babies in them. Smaller bins are more likely to overheat which can be dangerous. An unexpected sunny day beaming on the bins can raise temps significantly. This happened one year here, spiking container temps into the 90°s which scared the mess out of me, though everyone turned out fine.
Whatever you choose, you can always make changes to better meet everyone’s needs. And kudos again for doing the planning!
5 Likes
Thanks for the advice I prefer having everything ready in advance because there is less room for mistake if you do
2 Likes
Absolutely right!
2 Likes
The seller has just got back with the genders of the snakes but they are all male so I’m not too sure if I should get all of them?
I’m possibly missing something someplace, but I’m not sure to what snakes you’re referencing.
As a general rule of thumb for breeding ratios, well, it depends. You may have a male for each female if you’re working with very specialized pairings, or with very young males. Many find that a mature male can mate with 3 or even 4 females without a drop in fertility. Many breeders (like me) give females a break after breeding, at least every couple of years. Males can be bred every season without ill effect.
I don’t know if that is helpful info or not.
1 Like
Sorry about the confusion, I’m talking about the adult corn snakes I was planning on buying along with those 2 normals it turns out that all of them are males.
2 Likes
You’ve got two females and a male of your own if I remember correctly? If so, you’re going to want a larger ratio of females to males, as you can pair a male with multiple girls, but those girls will only give you one, maybe two clutches a year, and they may need time off as @caryl said.
2 Likes
Yea that’s true I think I’ll only get one of the babies, snow and the charcoal rather than all of them
2 Likes
I think with the genes you already have, that’s likely a solid choice in genetics to get started with.
2 Likes
Yea I also managed to learn that the mum of the baby was a pewter so that should also pair well with my fire pied once they are old enough bit sure about the father though he said he thought it was the charcoal but then all the babies would also be charcoal so not too sure about that one
2 Likes